About Yuma And Me...

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Sarah.D, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. Sarah.D Well-Known Member

    Here's an update on Yuma and me! :)

    He is now 11 weeks old, as of Thursday the 11th.
    We have successfully moved into our new house and he has adjusted well. I now have him trained to sit on command and give his left or right paw according to which hand I offer.
    He no longer barks at all hours of the morning, I am guessing that is because his bladder is bigger. :D
    He goes to the door when he needs to potty and he stops whatever unwanted behavior he is doing with just a, "Yuma, stop that" or "No sir, don't do that".
    He doesn't bark constantly when I put him in his crate, no matter the time of day. He whimpers a bit just because he would rather be out and about, but that only happens when I have to go somewhere and put him up for a bit during the day. At night when it is time for bed, he goes straight in.
    I have incorporated a clicker to reinforce good behavior and give a treat. That has helped with his "bedtime" command.

    Thank you all again for all the assistance! I am sure I will be back to ask more as he grows. :giggle:

  2. running_dog Honored Member

    Such good news Sarah, Well Done on the progress! You sound like you feel so much more in control and often that is 90% of the battle! Thanks for keeping us posted (y).
  3. sara Moderator

    As to the bribery thing... I like Jean Donaldson's example: If you put money into a pop machine, you get a drink, every time, so you will keep putting money into the machine until it no longer works. If you put money into a garbage can, you get nothing, so you wont continue putting money into it if there's no rewards. If you put money into a slot machine, you may or may not get anything in return, but the chance to get something will keep you dropping in money.

    Dog training works the same way, if a dog never gets rewarded for something, why would they do it? if they always get rewarded, they will continue to try, if they get rewarded sometimes, to varying degrees, they will continue to try to get the jackpot, but will take what they can get.

    this is why you can put a dog on a varying reward schedule and still see sucess (after the dog knows what you want) so it's not bribery, it's motivation, and "money in the bank"
    Jukes, tigerlily46514 and mewzard like this.
  4. Sarah.D Well-Known Member

    EDIT: I looked up kikopup on YouTube and watched some videos on pulling. Still want your input though, guys. ^_^

    Okay so the house training is a success thus far. I dare not say complete as of yet, because I know if I do, something will go wrong. :ROFLMAO:
    Sit, give left/right paw, and down are still works in progress. We're getting better, though!
    He sits at the door when he needs to go outside and he waits there until his leash is clipped (I dont trust him off of it yet) and when returning to the house, he sits as the door is shut until I unleash him and say, "OK".
    But now this good news comes with some snags. I have picked up taking him out to the local park so he can get used to seeing cars go by and kids playing, etc. Basic socialization to the best of my ability for now. He is leashed at all times for his, and my heart's, safety. But when I start to go jogging with him, or even just try to walk with him around the paved paths, he pulls me. I try to make him stop and come sit at my feet when he does this (I do this with my horses when they pull on the lead rope, except they of course dont sit :X3:). I wait until he looks at me like, "Mom? Can we go now?" then I say we can and he is good for like....3 steps. Then it's back to pulling me like he is a sled dog.
    Now, I know that pulling back on him just makes him pull more not to mention is hell on his throat, but what else should I try? I tell him "no" and whatnot, but he ignores me. Speaking of which, the whole time we are out and about, he acts like I dont exist. My commands fall upon large, deaf ears. Any suggestions with that? I've tried taking treats so when I say his name and he looks at me (which takes like a MILLION times) I treat him.
    It's not like he is so engulfed in his surroundings that he chooses not to hear me, he just does his own thing like he is his own boss. Normally I can at least get him to look at me when we go outside around our yard, but take him to the park, and he literally behaves as if he is alpha. He thinks HE directs ME. It is a constant battle to which I feel I am losing. :notworthy:
  5. tigerlily46514 Honored Member

    SOUNDS LIKE YOUR INFANT DOG IS DOING GREAT!! KUDOS!! and that is great you appreciate a dog's neck was never intended to bear weight, so good on you for that. I like how you are now going for 'positive only' and choosing to leave fear/pain out of your methods, YAY!

    Getting a dog not to pull is difficult, even for mature adult dogs, but, hopefully, these videos might give you some ideas to try:


    Remember, this baby is still an infant, and has very short attention span so far.

    "Look at me" is a great cue to work on. I start indoors, and then, add in distractions, like my yard, then, slowly advanced along to on walks, etc.
    Here's some attention building games to play with your baby dog: (again, keep in mind, your dog IS a baby, and has ababy's short attention span so far)


  6. tigerlily46514 Honored Member

    i NEVER ever use my dog's name for recall, i know some ppl do, but, i don't. Buddy hears his name 100 times a day, ha ha, we even talk about him all day right in front of him.
    We use his name alllllllll the time when we play with him, just all the time we use his name.

    His name, to him, does NOT mean "come".

    I use the word "come". NOT his name. Everyone is different, but, this works for *my* dog. Some ppl who have worn out the word "come" ---like their dog has learned to ignore that word-------and they might want to consider starting all over with NEW word, like "here", or a whistle noise.

    Everyone has their own way to teach recall, and all dogs are different, but, i tricked my dog into thinking the word "come" means "treat". (actually, my dog does NOT know the word "treat", ha ha, he thinks 'treat' is 'come')

    I started inside the house, stood next to him, said "come" and gave him a treat.

    Over time, i am across the room, said, "Buddy, COME"--IN HAPPY VOICE--- and he took few steps (cuz Buddy thinks "come" means "treat", see? and what dog says no to "Treat", ha ha).

    Then i am in different rooms.

    Then, AFTER he was SOLID with inside the house, THEN i went out into yard, and when he was NOT distracted, and NOT far away, ---"Buddy COME" he shows up, and gets treat.
    Buddy got treats for each time he showed up,
    every single time,
    while in training,
    and to this day,
    he still gets either praise, or a treat sometimes.

    but while IN TRAINING, yes, yes, he got treats, lil tiny treats, for each time he showed up.

    Then, when short distance recall with low distraction was going well,
    we advanced to higher distractions,
    and then, over time,
    advanced to longer distances.

    I did NOT fade out his treats til he had solid recall.
    I faded out treats to be skipped like every 3rd time, he got praise only.

    then sporadic....slowly, fading them out to "every now and then", after his brain had almost reflexive urge to run to me when he heard the word, "Buddy COME"

    Some ppl use tug toys, if you have one that fits in your pocket, etc.

    (well, Buddy *HAD* solid 99% recall, til i messed up and let him chase some geese, and i now have a dog i can not call off of prey...sigh. But otherwise, he is solid like a rock, unless there is prey that he HAS started chasing...sigh. TIP---don't allow your dog to chase prey, ha ha!! )

    Never ever ever scold a dog who shows up late. The dog remembers that, and it reduces his urge to show up at all. (Why show up to get yelled at?)

    A great tip i got, from Tx, was(paraphrasing) "Try to avoid calling to a dog you KNOW will not come at that exact moment, as it weakens the cue to have dog not come when called, so avoid calling the dog at that moment, such as when a dog is doing his pre-urination sniff. It's a rare dog who will come when he is about to pee. When you gotta go, you gotta go. So wait til dog is done with his pre-pee sniff, the pee, and THEN call him to come. Then you both win."

    In areas of high distraction, or long distance----------------
    i am not above using high pitch voice, hunching down and clapping on my legs, actually, for long distance, i have a special embarrassingly high pitched "beebee beebee COMEMERE beebee" thing i do, which might make someone blush to witness, ha ha, but, hey, my dog LOVES it, and appears to be laughing as he comes running to me full speed. I've chuckled watching my guy try to imitate that noise i make, to get Buddy to come to him long distance, hilarious.

    Buddy still gets a treat a few times a week for coming when called, and he never knows which time it might be. I myself have no trouble using treats, no qualms at all. I use real bits of meat, not junk. I subtract it out of his dinner meal......so he 'earned' some of his meal, so what?

    He also gets lavish praise for showing up. I've had my dog....almost 3 years, and i haven't yelled at him yet, i have only said "no" like a very few times in all that time, just extremely rarely ever use that word ever,
    and i've never ever hit him, not once.
    BEST OF LUCK, and remember,
    having a dog 'come' when called,
    is difficult for the dog,
    so make it worth it to the dog when he shows up.

    Work up to the high-distraction/long distance recalls, by having solid short distance recalls. YOu don't *start* with long distance/high distraction recalls, you work up to those, imo.

    I still practice Buddy's recall almost every day of his life.

    and remember, your dog is a baby dog.
    Jukes likes this.
  7. jackienmutts Honored Member

    First of all, I want to say, it does sound like you're doing a really great job with Yuma! Keep up the good work. Now - as far as him pulling you in the park - he's not behaving like an alpha, he's behaving like .... drum roll .... a puppy!! :LOL: He's just learning about focus, and trying to keep his attention on you, and walking on a leash, and learning about the world around him. You say he can at least look at you when you go outside around your yard. FABULOUS!!! That in itself is quite an accomplishment with a 3-1/2 month old puppy!! You're asking him to ignore all the good smells in your yard and only look at you - and he's doing it. What a smart boy!! Think about how many times he's been around your yard, sniffed everything, checked it all out, over and over and over again - and yet every day, he can't wait to check it all out again, and it's like the first time!!

    Ok - now, let's go to the park. OMG, new smells everywhere!! It's gotta be sensory overload!!! He's gotta go here, go there, here, there, and he's gotta go NOW!!! HURRY!!! QUICK!!! C'mon mom, hurry, WE GOTTA GO!!! It's doggie Disneyland, dogs have peed, bunnies have been there, gophers are underground, squirrels have run by, cats have been there, people have walked thru - smells everywhere!!! All those smells hit him the second you get there, and he's trying to take them all in as fast as he can. And you're asking him to slow down and look at you?? :eek::p So - think about that from his perspective. It's all so new to him. He truly has to learn how to slow down, reign in that focus, and really pay attention to you. So, go slow with him, sometimes lots of turning around and walking in the opposite direction will help - but first get a good walk down in your yard. Practice, practice, practice. He pulls, turn around - walk a couple steps, he pulls, turn around, walk in the other direction - he pulls, turn around, walk in the other direction - he pulls, turn around, walk in the other direction. He'll finally get it, that if I don't pull, maybe I can advance 3 steps instead of 2 - and 4 steps instead of 3. He's a puppy, and it's all so new and fun, it's gonna take time. Be patient. Don't overuse his name, he'll start tuning you out. If you have to keep turning around, use a happy "let's go", and make it fun. He'll be just fine - you just keep taking those long deep breaths, and reminding yourself to be patient. Loose leash walking can be one of the toughest things to teach (for some dogs). Some dogs are just always in a hurry, and especially at such a young age. So just be consistent, start with the walking in an area he knows, then work up to the park. He'll be walking fine in no time. Good luck!! :cool:
    MaryK, mewzard and tigerlily46514 like this.
  8. tigerlily46514 Honored Member

    OOH, one thing i learned the hard way, about pulling, was, for *MY* dog, that extenda-leash was ruining it. I think maybe it confused *my* dog, cuz you know, somedays he pulls, and he gets 20 extra feet of leash! then, when i 'locked it' to a shorter length, well, he couldn't understand why he could no longer get that extra 20 feet of leash to come out anymore.

    So i hid the extenda-leash, and got some plain old 6 foot leashes. I tied a knot in the leash where my hand goes, so i know how far away Buddy is. (right beside me)
    The leash is slack, the knot is in my hand to mark how far away Buddy is, and that was that, our progress advanced much faster. Buddy was ADULT dog, though, and it still took some time for him to get hang of it.
    I make sure he gets his full speed RUNS and excercise in fenced in school yards, woods, etc, but his walks are just walks beside me.

    My point is, if you are using an extenda-leash off/on, off/on, *maybe* that will also mess up your dog's ability to stop pulling like it did for my dog. Plus, the nonstop lil pull of the extenda leash sort of made it harder for Buddy to know pulling from not pulling? maybe..

    But Jackie is right, it is not easy for young baby dog in a doggie-disneyworld to not get excited!!!

    Teaching your dog to not pull takes time, much practice,
    as does 'recall'.
    Neither of these things is taught right away, takes time and practice practice practice. But you sound like you are doing fine now!!
    mewzard likes this.
  9. running_dog Honored Member

    I've found the Sue Ailsby training for loose leash walking really helpful. In summary (but do read them yourself if you are going to use this) she teaches dogs that if the dog pulls towards an object it won't get there. She starts walking towards one distraction with the dog on a loose leash. She says that the clip of the lead should be hanging down with no support from the lead, as soon as it starts to tighten you walk backwards (don't turn round) until the dog loses interest, then you walk forward again. Based on (but not exactly) the training she suggests when the clip starts to move from vertical I simply take a few steps backwards until Zac has repositioned himself appropriately, then we set off forwards again. It works! and it works for running too - though you're going to have a lot of stops and starts at first, after a couple of days I think you'ld see a difference

    By the way YOU ARE DOING GREAT!!!!!!!!!
    tigerlily46514 likes this.
  10. mewzard Experienced Member

    Tigerlily - we did the same thing with a extendy lead - we used it 3 times! So confusing for the dog!
    I think there are so many ways to teach a dog that pulling= no forward progress.... The key to all is consistancy. We used the SueAilsby technique but it drove me nuts in the end. I practiced TONNES in the garden with out a lead using treats to reward Oka for walking next to me. If she walked away then i just carried on walking until she got the idea that next to my leg=yummy food.
    Could you drive him to the park? buy at long line (10m long) and then let him sniff and wander...anytime he comes near you throw him a treat, or get out a tug toy that way he sees you as fun when out and not just "the one holding the lead" - which believe me i understand - Oka was like this for a LOONNNGG time and it has taken months to get her to listen (though still isn't great around other dogs). But mostly it's just time - Jackie describes a puppy point of view well - it's kid in a sweet shop.
    For recall - have you tried a whistle? I found this was WAY more effective than my voice. We use a referee whistle - but don't use on if you go to football/soccer game with him as it will stop being effective.
    tigerlily46514 likes this.
  11. Sarah.D Well-Known Member

    Jackie: I know that he is a puppy. You don't have to tell me that. :ROFLMAO: I got it. I also know when he is testing my dominance. The pulling isn't what I was referring to as him "trying to be alpha". Sorry if that wasn't clear. ^_^ What I was meaning, and I should have put this I guess, is that he turns with his mouth open and makes a horrid noise at me when I correct his behavior. It isn't really a growl....more of a "touch me again and I am going to snap" type thing. He hasn't bitten at me yet, but he voices his unhappiness and then comes the ignoring me part. But I do enjoy your interpretation of the park being dog Disneyland to him. :giggle: That makes more sense to me now as to why he is so here-there-everywhere, but he quits doing that after a bit and then it is just back to him pulling me to where HE wants to go. And when we get to wherever that place may be, he stops, looks at me, then just as I go to turn around, off he goes again. He is a BIG boy, so pulling my tiny frame is easy for him. LOL I'm not sure if the changing directions when he does it will help simply because he will just be like, "Okay then, I want to go this way now and you follow". He doesn't ever fall behind me or beside me until we are both worn out from the struggle. After he is tired, he does great! :p Maybe he just has too much energy??

    tigerlily: I am using a regular leash. ^_^ I don't like the retractable ones simply because I hate having to readjust the length constantly. I prefer just a run-of-the-mill leash that is always going to be the same length. Thanks for the video posts, too. Those are actually the ones I watched last night after I posted here! haha And I too do the "C'mere Yuma baby!" (which sounds like "you my baby" if I say it too high toned haha) and it works up until he gets this look on his face like "wait...if I get closer, she takes me somewhere else" even though that's not always the case. I call him sometimes just to have him come to me, praise him, then let him go on his merry way (while we are at home, that is).

    running_dog: I will look Sue's method up! Sounds like it is like what kikopup does in her videos. Anything is worth a try I suppose.

    mewzard: I now have a longer leash to allow him to go sniff and run about while I sit and wait for him to come to me. I'm going to try it this weekend and see how it goes. Like I mentioned in the reply to Jackie, maybe he just has SO much energy that he doesn't have time to listen to ol' mom? LOL Whatever the case may be, I hope to get him to where I can trust him off leash some day. :cautious:
    running_dog likes this.
  12. tigerlily46514 Honored Member

    Sarah, i applaud your obviously sincere efforts to raise Yuma to be her best self ever, and to learn to be a well behaved dog, so kudos to you for that!!
    It never hurts to be reminded of one's dog being a baby, especially when they are of a good size, they still have a baby's attention span, hee hee! It can be difficult for us humans to keep in mind a baby dog's limits and have appropriate expectations, and understanding of the baby dog's limited ability for self control and memory.

    I have a few concerns/questions about this remark:

    .//" I also know when he is testing my dominance. The pulling isn't what I was referring to as him "trying to be alpha". Sorry if that wasn't clear. ^_^ What I was meaning, and I should have put this I guess, is that he turns with his mouth open and makes a horrid noise at me when I correct his behavior. It isn't really a growl....more of a "touch me again and I am going to snap" type thing. He hasn't bitten at me yet, but he voices his unhappiness and then comes the ignoring me part."//

    What does "correct his behavior" mean?
    Yuma seems both confused and frightened/threatened by whatever it is you are doing.
    and it is apparently NOT working for *your* dog.

    Sarah, it is YOUR dog, and YOUR choice, but, *some* dogs do not do well with negative stuff, they neither need it, benefit from it, nor learn what you *think* they should learn from negative stuff. The dog *might* be learning "something", but, sometimes, the dog is NOT learning what you *think* he is learning.
    It is possible, that your Yuma is brilliant enough, she does not need negative stuff at all, she sounds smart enough she might only need your praise when she does correct move, and not your aggression(be it verbal or physical) or 'correction' when she misses the mark and is being a puppy, doing what puppies do.

    These are formative times for Yuma, and it is very obvious, that you, Sarah, want only the best to happen to Yuma. It is very very veyr possible to teach a dog to do what YOU want,
    without ever offering a correction. YOu ignore, (or interrupt) wrong moves, reward correct moves.


    Buddy will heartily agree, as will most dogs here.

    Also, not sure you do---but, IF you do----please never ever 'correct' a growl, of course. Like, don't scold a growl, nor yank his collar, or any such thing. Pay att'n to any growl, remove dog away from whatever he is complaining about there if he growls,
    but do NOT teach your dog to never growl. Teaching a dog to skip his growl does not make him "nice", it only makes him ~silent~.
    All he learns is "Leave out the warning growl"....then you are left with a dog who is wayyyyy harder to read, and a dog who goes straight for a bite, which is last thing you want. Those ppl complain, "But, i never know when Fido will bite, one minute he is fine, then bam, he bites someone, NO WARNING!"
    and maybe my words there are unneeded, if so, i'm sorry, but, you don't get a lot of chances to get your response to a growl correct, so i thought i'd throw that in, in case you didn't know you never want to teach your dog to skip his growl.

    Re: the alpha stuff. Turn off the Dog Whisperer, and DO turn on "It's Me or The Dog" with Victoria Stillwell.

    I don't concern myself with alpha stuff,
    i've worked to teach my dog, that i am the source of all things wonderful. He comes to me, and obeys me,
    cuz he wants to-------because he trusts me with his whole being. I'll take that over "alpha" any day.
    Buddy and i have never discussed who is alpha, lol!:ROFLMAO:

    I'm not kidding, in our efforts to be great dog owners, we can easily be swayed by popular notions, "alpha", etc etc. But it is up to us to decide what we want our dogs to think about us. My dog adores me, he'd run through fire for me, he does anything and everything i ask, (if he can) yet, he's never been 'corrected'. He learned how to obey, and what it IS i DO want him to do--------------- by having his 'correct' moves rewarded,
    and absolutely ZERO punishment, or 'corrections' whatsoever. None.

    A dog who does not obey, OFTEN does not KNOW what he IS supposed to do. Rewarding what he *IS* supposed to do, is far more effective than 'correcting' wrong moves---which only teaches the dog *you* can be scarey/grouchy.

    A dog in training, who DID correct move on Monday, may very well forget the correct move on Tuesday, so we can't say, "Well, Fido KNOWS what to do!" cuz, Fido doesn't. His brain just blew a fuse over the great smell of recent cat foot print. And a baby dog,
    takes even more practice, more postive-only lessons, to get the wanted behavior down pat, than adult dogs do, cuz they DO have short att'n spans, shorter ability to remember stuff well, and less ability to control all the normal animal instincts in themselves.

    HE'S A BABY!!!

    anyway, i hope you do reconsider 'correcting' Yuma's innocent mistakes. When you were learning division, if the teacher had whapped you on the hand, or degraded you, every time you got one wrong, would that have taught you correct math? or to LOVE math? i don't think so...
    running_dog and mewzard like this.
  13. tigerlily46514 Honored Member

    Also, if your dog is way bigger than you are, some ppl here have used the "Gentle Leader" head collar successfully. It is VIP VIP VIP that you follow the instructions on how to introduce the collar correctly so that your dog WILL like it. It is difficult to get some dogs to tolerate this collar, so, taking time to make sure your dog thinks the GL is a great item is a good investment.

    In this next video, the gal appears to has desensitized her dog to the GLeader ------ all in one (1) lesson, i think it oughta be done over many many days, maybe several times a day, and start with only short lil walks.

    the "Gentle Leader" website has a video on how to fit one correctly, which is also VIP to get correct fit. You can not jerk a dog in this collar, though, only gentle pulls, cuz you could hurt the dog's neck. And i think you have to frequently check the fit a lot, too, like during walks.

    hope that might help if your puppy already can drag you, and if you are successful in getting Yuma to think a GL is great great great....
  14. sara Moderator

  15. mewzard Experienced Member

    For shepherdy types the Gentle leader fits better than the Halti one - so i'm told. The Black dog stuff is amazing - i fully recommend the harness. there is a thread where a bunch of us got on the band wagon and bought one Click here. Another good harness is the Easy walk by Premier. Oka was on a harness at about 4 months - as you say they are strong! Especially when they are determinded.
    I'm posting a link to my thread where i've been writing about dealing with Oka's total ignoring of me around other dogs. I mean point blank not even turn her ear to her name. Oka is 14months old and i alot better. We didn't let her off lead til she was about 5 months and then at 11 month-ish she went back onlead full time again as she became too unreliable (e.g was trying to cross roads to get to other dogs) . We let her off the other day for the first time since 11months and she was good. so Click here for that.
    Some of the first page is just me moaning!! but you can get the idea of what we have done with her.
    Shepherd will follow you to death basically. They are loyal even though she interested in other things. I would start walking away before he pulls you to the next place. Don't let him finish and decide "ok over there next" Essentually he wants to sniff. so then take him to something a tree/trash can/lamp post and say /sniff/.... let him sniff....before he finishes (say 10 seconds) pulling him to somewhere else ...maybe jog a little and point to something on the ground and say /sniff/ ---Make a HUGE deal about this spot that you are at...then he will be more inclined to pay attention - you literally have to be crazy becuase you are trying to trump his puppyish instinct to explore.
    Throw treats to him or put them under his nose. These need to be MAJOR treats - ham, cheese, bacon, peanut butter, brie, sausages....not store bought things unless they are REAL food. Something that makes his eye bug out and drool on the sight of them. That way the treats are major rewards and he will look to you for them... get a tug toy and hid it in your pocket...so those odd times he does come to you get the toy and go crazy - run around with him tugging on it.... I'm starting to think i may get my DP to make a video of Oka and i on the field...
    I'm trying not to sound preachy, but i totally get the responses you are dealing with. Oka is a Shepherd cross and she is crossed with a dog that has a mind of its own; "whats in it for me" attitude built in. She is super smart and i would get sooo frustrated that the dog i have at home (lots of tricks and commands known) wouldn't even look at me when i said her name when we were out. I've walked to the park many times to train and play only to come home after 2 minutes because she wouldn't look at me, listen and was just being impossible. So rather than get annoyed - i just take her home.
    anything else you want to ask please feel free. Also Susan garretts recall lessons are great ...look on youtube for them too.
    tigerlily46514 and running_dog like this.
  16. running_dog Honored Member

    Like Tigerlily I'm just a little worried about this dominance idea! I'm also interested in what you mean by correcting his behaviour. I think I'd be really avoiding the confrontation and finding an alternative method. It sounds like you are already beyond the stage when you can force Yuma to do what you want (he's too big!) so honestly skip "corrections". Some dogs just can't be forced to do things but they are the most amazing dogs when they are led. We had a big deerhound cross, even though we weren't 100% positive in principle at that point in time we still avoided all confrontation with her because she would obviously have won :cautious:. Respecting her space and strength and crocodile jaws did not mean she was "badly behaved" nor was she dominant at all, it just meant we trained her differently, if she didn't want to do something we took a step back for a few moments and then tried again, gently. She was the only dog we ever had that I believe would have willingly died for one of us (my Mum).
  17. Sarah.D Well-Known Member

    About the "correcting his behavior" thing: I just scold him with a firm "No, sir. Wrong." accompanied with a stern look. And he knows what it means because he gives me an oh so expressive look of, "Well that sucks." Then he just kinda shrugs me off. :notworthy:
    I am going to look into the things you all mentioned about the collars. I just would like to nip this behavior in the bud before he becomes even larger and really, literally drags me to where he wants. :giggle:
  18. tigerlily46514 Honored Member

    Oh, if you do try either the "Gentle Leader" or the "Black Dog" head collars, don't make the mistake i did, in not taking enough time to get my dog to LIKE it. I must have gone too fast, or went too far on the first walk, something, cuz my dog can only just barely tolerate it. I think i watched the videos, it looked so easy to get the dog to 'like' it, i do believe, i must have rushed a bit, not taken long enough, something, cuz my dog barely tolerates the thing.....i hope you do better than i did, maybe go slower, taking more time, using better treats, etc. than i did.

    Also, i'm glad your correction is only verbal, not yanking too, good. Still, it usually teaches a dog nothing. Nothing. the dog usually has no idea what you are upset over, not a clue.
    His offer of appeasing behaviors to calm you down, does NOT indicate he "knew what he did wrong". You could walk over to your dog right now, and yell at him, he will do exact same thing once he gets over the initial shock, the dog would offer you appeasing behaviors to calm you down....(not that you would randomly yell at a dog of course! it'd be upsetting your dog) but the offer of appeasing, head down, tail down, submissive looks, does not mean he has one clue *WHY* you made a scarey face and scolded him, he only offers those to calm you. It's a pack thing, to keep peace in the pack, which is so crucial for survival, is peace, no one wants to be a lone dog.

    and from what you described in post #51, it doesn't sound like your particular dog is benefitting from negative corrections, not all dogs can tolerate/benefit/learn from punishments........but i do bet, you might find walking the dog easier in the head-collar. Remember in head collars, absolutely NO yanking or sudden quick moves, as you could hurt his neck, slowwww moves only.
    YOu won't any need force anyway, the dog HAS TO follow his own head anyway.
    There is an 80lb old man down the street who walks his 100 lb "dog-who-used-to-pull" in a Gentle Leader, no force is needed at all. That lil ol man couldn't move fast if he had to, he does fine with his large dog, nice and slowwwwly leading the big dog in the Gentle Leader down the street.

    BEST OF LUCK, I THINK YOU GUYS ARE FINDING YOUR WAY!! YAY!! KEEP US POSTED!! and i hope you do better than *i* did getting your dog to be really comfy and happy in the head collar. Many ppl DO succeed at that, but, i did do something wrong/too fast/something, and wow, do i ever regret that mistake...... so do take your time getting your dog to like that collar so you won't be like me and my dog who still tries to paw it off all the time if he gets a chance to..
  19. Sarah.D Well-Known Member

    LONG overdue update:

    Yuma is getting BIG. Like, huge. :ROFLMAO: He pulls my small frame around like it was nothing. And yes, I said pull. He is horrible about walking on a leash still yet. I tried the training halter thing...he just pawed at it constantly and whined. But then again, since he was pawing at it, he wasn't pulling -- but we weren't moving either! :giggle:
    I plan to tackle that problem some other way.
    The thing that is an issue right now, plus is embarrassing and nasty, is that he pees all over the feet of anyone that comes to my house. Even the people I LIVE with, whom he sees on a daily basis, get peed on when they come home from classes or work. I know he is excited to see them and all, but seriously? I even take him out like 2 min before they come home and he pees outside. Nevertheless, as soon as they set foot out of their vehicle, he pees all over them. It's like he holds some just for that purpose. :cautious:
    He doesn't pee on me though. At least hasn't in a long time. I scolded him for it and he hasn't since, but then again I am not ever gone as long as the other people. At most I am gone 5 hours at a time, where as the others are gone on full work days. Not always though. The person I live with can be gone off to classes for like 3 hours and come home -- BOOM...peed on.
    Any way to stop this? Will he grow out of it? Bladder control problem? Help?? :confused:
  20. Anneke Honored Member

    About the pawing at the halter... That is normal, hihi. No, the point is to ignore this. When he stops to paw at the halter, ignore him and keep walking. When you stop to wait for him, you only tell him it is ok to do this. As soon as he is following again, reward him for doing so. It will take a while for him to get used to it.
    He is just protesting, he knows this thing keeps him from doing what he wants, and makes him do what you want. Ignore the whining, you know it does not hurt him;)
    My 5 year old still whipes his nose between my legs, when he wears the gentle leader(try walking when a dog sticks his head between your legs from behind:D:D) As soon as we stop he drops to the floor and tries to rub it off on the ground:rolleyes:

    The peeing on people... Does he actually pee on them or does he pee on the floor because they greet him?
    There is a big difference, because the first is probably marking territory(yes even people can be seen as territory) and the other is excitement.
    You also handle these differently.
    If he lifts up his leg at someone(to pee on them) I would keep him on leash and tell him a firm NO! Like I said it is marking behaviour and not desirable.
    If he is just overcome with joy, because people are looking at him/greeting him and he pees on the floor, then I would ask these people to ignore him untill he is less excited. So when they come in they should completely ignore your dog. Act like he is not there.

    I will have to think about how to fix the first(dominant marking behaviour) Keeping him on leash was the first thing that popped into my mind....
    tigerlily46514 likes this.

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