Hi there, my name is Laurie. I found this site by accident and am glad I did. I have a 3 y/o schipperkee(Emma) who I adopted from a local shelter. She already knows some basic commands-sit, lay down, stay/wait, get your toy, down, outside/go potty...but we are having problems still with walking calmly on a leash and not barking nonstop when she is excited. I am going next week (after looking for close to a year for the right place) to adopt a rescue dog (one from a puppy mill) and want to make sure we get a head start on training and see if anyone else is/has been in the same situation and what does/doesn't work. I know many of these dogs have issues, so I want to be confident and assured so we can work together on this. I don't want it to be confusing or a bad experience for him/her. Emma was quite easy to train (she was 8 weeks) but I am thinking that this time I will get an older dog as they are harder to place. As you can tell from my introduction, I have a hard time talking to strangers!!! snblushing:Anyway, glad to be here and meet you all. Laurie
eager to learn
- Thread starter laurie7
- Start date
Welcome to the Academy, and kudos for rescuing! What method have you used for Emma's leash training? Leash training is really quite easy to do, but there are different methods that of course work for different dogs. I would advise subscribing to the classroom, which will help you with some basic/intermediate/ and advanced tricks. Any other problems you run into you can post about on the forum and will most likely get lots of advice. =)
The method I have found most effective with many dogs is the turnaround method. This is spinning around and walking the other direction anytime the dog gets past your knee. You continue to do this until the dog will stay in place, and normally it really doesn't take long. However, this method of course does not work on ALL dogs, but in my experience it has worked with the majority of them when used correctly. There are many other successful methods and I am eager to hear which you have used. =)
The method I have found most effective with many dogs is the turnaround method. This is spinning around and walking the other direction anytime the dog gets past your knee. You continue to do this until the dog will stay in place, and normally it really doesn't take long. However, this method of course does not work on ALL dogs, but in my experience it has worked with the majority of them when used correctly. There are many other successful methods and I am eager to hear which you have used. =)
snooks
Experienced Member
I love love Skips, they are gorgeous and such expressive eyes.
For the barking I have a tip that worked very well for me. I just joined a Karen Pryor clicker class and it's a wonderful experience. Here's what she suggested, our pup barks like mad when excited in her crate by a visitor. She so wants to go MEET them. I stand by the crate and click/treat every quiet second, even if only to inhale for the next bark. Be very quick and fast, timing is key. Have a handfull 20+ pea sized good quality treats like cubed chicken, beef, cheese etc.
To get the timing down use a tennis ball with a partner or mirror and bounce random timing and try to click right as it hits the ground. As puppy realizes what's happening you can back up a step and toss the treat. This is easier if the pup is crated in a wire crate (open top) or tethered so they can't run off and get distracted. When I tether I put a bungee on the leash so pup won't pull too hard. Wire crate is the easiest if you have one.
The quiet times should get longer, as they increase and puppy stays quiet you can c/t again. Don't look at puppy when barking look to the side, it's not necessary to say good or anything since it might amp pup up more. The treat is the praise. Increase distance and just toss treats from that distance. As you get better add a voice cue like quiet just before you click.
For those out of crate times you can try asking for a come or making a weird noise like smooches or high pitched boop! or a soft touch to get attention. At the very first start of a head turn or hesitation in bark frenzy click/treat. Use good treats -- not boring cookies and ideally something puppy LOVES to eat.
Mill pups and shelter dogs also need lots of time time and patience x 10. Go slow and keep your sense of humor. I bet if you look somewhere you'll see daily progress big or small and it will be so rewarding to watch as she grows. I tell u this assuming you used a clicker or know what one is..sorry I should have offered a reference. There are loads of good books but I love my Karen Pryor books and trainer. Her web site is www.clickertraining.com. Our last foster and several dogs got so much from clicker and positive food rewarded training. I had previously considered food a crutch but realize now I should have tried it first. :dogtongue2:
You fade the food and clicker as puppy masters that task. Food stays random and clicker goes away for that behavior. Once you use it you may never train another way, the dog has so much fun and is really thinking and offering behavior after a while. Things get so much more fun and easy.
For the barking I have a tip that worked very well for me. I just joined a Karen Pryor clicker class and it's a wonderful experience. Here's what she suggested, our pup barks like mad when excited in her crate by a visitor. She so wants to go MEET them. I stand by the crate and click/treat every quiet second, even if only to inhale for the next bark. Be very quick and fast, timing is key. Have a handfull 20+ pea sized good quality treats like cubed chicken, beef, cheese etc.
To get the timing down use a tennis ball with a partner or mirror and bounce random timing and try to click right as it hits the ground. As puppy realizes what's happening you can back up a step and toss the treat. This is easier if the pup is crated in a wire crate (open top) or tethered so they can't run off and get distracted. When I tether I put a bungee on the leash so pup won't pull too hard. Wire crate is the easiest if you have one.
The quiet times should get longer, as they increase and puppy stays quiet you can c/t again. Don't look at puppy when barking look to the side, it's not necessary to say good or anything since it might amp pup up more. The treat is the praise. Increase distance and just toss treats from that distance. As you get better add a voice cue like quiet just before you click.
For those out of crate times you can try asking for a come or making a weird noise like smooches or high pitched boop! or a soft touch to get attention. At the very first start of a head turn or hesitation in bark frenzy click/treat. Use good treats -- not boring cookies and ideally something puppy LOVES to eat.
Mill pups and shelter dogs also need lots of time time and patience x 10. Go slow and keep your sense of humor. I bet if you look somewhere you'll see daily progress big or small and it will be so rewarding to watch as she grows. I tell u this assuming you used a clicker or know what one is..sorry I should have offered a reference. There are loads of good books but I love my Karen Pryor books and trainer. Her web site is www.clickertraining.com. Our last foster and several dogs got so much from clicker and positive food rewarded training. I had previously considered food a crutch but realize now I should have tried it first. :dogtongue2:
You fade the food and clicker as puppy masters that task. Food stays random and clicker goes away for that behavior. Once you use it you may never train another way, the dog has so much fun and is really thinking and offering behavior after a while. Things get so much more fun and easy.
Thank you all for the wonderful advice. I have tried the method for walking on the leash where if she pulls, I just stop until she stops and comes back to investigate why I am not moving and gives me the look lie "c'mon slowpoke!". I will try the turn around method and see how it goes. Also, I have seen shows where they use the clicker. I thought it looked awful complicated but I'll give it a try too. Also snooks, you are so right about the skips expressive eyes! Emma is such a character and has such a wondrful personality. Can't wait to try these new tips. THanks all!!! Laurie
snooks
Experienced Member
clicker may sound complicated but is not, and the dog learns quicker. once that behavior is learned u quit using the clicker and save it for when u have something new. 
rules, click always means treat (even if u mess up and click at the wrong time or accidently). that's it. dog learns that the moment u click is when he's doing what u want and he will repeat it. soon u get a dog that is paying attention and having fun, and offering behavior while thinking. i would never train another way after trying it, it's sooo much easier.
don't be daunted..it's a very low pressure positive way to train. i taught leashed and off leash heel with clicker too. get a flexi wrist strap and u can let go when u need to and it's there when needed.
rules, click always means treat (even if u mess up and click at the wrong time or accidently). that's it. dog learns that the moment u click is when he's doing what u want and he will repeat it. soon u get a dog that is paying attention and having fun, and offering behavior while thinking. i would never train another way after trying it, it's sooo much easier. don't be daunted..it's a very low pressure positive way to train. i taught leashed and off leash heel with clicker too. get a flexi wrist strap and u can let go when u need to and it's there when needed.