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Sunday, November 25, 2007

Dog Guarding Food while Eating.

Dogs have learned throughout their many years of existence that they must protect their resources, such as food, in order to survive. They’ve learned that they could easily keep other dogs from eating their food by growling, showing teethes, snapping or even biting other dogs that came too close to their food.

But dogs live a very different lifestyle since we’ve started to domesticate them. Some of their ingrained behaviors are not acceptable when living with people, such as guarding their food. This could be very dangerous, especially when the dog begins to protect his food from his owner, or anyone who comes close to him.

Some dog owners have the tendency of leaving unlimited amounts of food available for their dog. The dog can then eat whenever it wants, as much as it wants and is subject to no rules. There are a few reasons why I advise against doing this, mainly because the dog does not understand that you are the provider of the food, but also because it usually leads to the dog over-eating and becoming overweight.

It is always a good idea to give your dog measured meals and at regular intervals. If you look on the back of your dog food’s packaging, you will find a chart that indicates how much food your dog should eat, relative to his weight. You should also give your dog more food than the maximum amount indicated if he is a very active dog. When feeding your dog, place his food bowl down, and give him a maximum of thirty minutes to eat, and then pick up the bowl and any remaining food.

If your dog has already bitten someone while defending his food bowl, then you should immediately contact a reputable dog trainer or behaviorist. They will be able to access your dog’s behavior and to determine the safest way to proceed with his training.

Training your dog to not guard his food bowl is best done while he is still a puppy. However adults and older dogs can also be trained, it will just take a little bit more time and dedication.

The best way to get your dog to accept people around his food bowl is to teach him that wonderful things will happen when people are nearby when he is eating. Please follow the following instructions carefully, while making sure that your dog is comfortable with each step before moving onto the next.

  1. Give your dog half of his usual meal, when he finishes, pick up the empty bowl and add the second half, then give it back.
  2. Randomly walk up to your dog while he is eating and drop in super delicious dog treats in his food bowl.
  3. Walk up to your dog while talking calmly, and stoke and pet him lightly. Then drop in a super delicious dog treat into his food bowl.
  4. Take away your dog’s food bowl before he is finished, add some super delicious treats and give it back.


Food guarding is one of the most dangerous and most common problematic behaviors encountered. Small children are especially at risk around food possessive dogs. If your dog training efforts do not work or show progress, please call a reputable dog trainer or behaviorist as soon as possible.



Comments:
  1. Great article Jean, I have always broken my dogs of aggressive/protective eating behavior. I always have feared a child would try playing with the dog while it was eating and respond in a negative way. The reason of this fear is that I have done this to my family dog when I was a kid and the dog snipped at me. I understood the dog was not happy and why (my bad). Kids do not understand dogs and often treat them as humans, this is why I would li8ke to prevent any accidents from happening. Thanks Jean!

  2. No problem. I think all dog owners should train the simple exercises described in the article. It could really save yourself a lot of trouble down the road, if you ever baby sit a kid or end up getting some yourself. You never know what life throws at you, and it's better to be on the safe side.

  3. This is a good article, Jean. Too many dogs are never taught that they do not have to guard their food. With my puppies, I start with the first feeding, and get them used to me being close to the food bowl. I ask them to sit and stay seated until I release them with an "okay," then lavish them with praise. Here they are learning to sit and stay if they have not yet learned this, and they are also learning to earn their food. I stay close but do not invade their space at first, and over time I get them used to me being closer and closer, eventually petting them and then finally actually putting my hands in the bowl, messing with their mouths or ears, etc. This can be a slow process, of course. If the pup guards the food at a certain distance, then I back off some and wait until they are comfortable at a further distance. This is a method used with horses, actually...for instance, if you are desensitizing a horse to a swinging rope, you don't immediately start swinging the rope as fast as you can right next to him. You start slowly, and at a pretty far distance. Once the horse shows no anxiety whatsoever at that distance, you move a little closer, still swinging slowly. And eventually, you get to where the horse is used to the rope swinging right beside him, and he doesn't mind. Although horses and dogs have an extremely different mindset(predator/prey differences), I find something similar to this method to be successful with dogs as well. I think that this allows the dog to accept you near their food slowly, as some dogs react more intensely if you jump right in near their food bowl.

    Mud came to me extremely food aggressive. She had been neglected, and when her foster family found out that she was so severely food aggressive, then simply allowed her to eat in her crate at every meal. They had 15 border collies, so you can imagine that this was difficult. Since her meals were restricted to the kennel, her aggressive mindset transferred to being protective of her crate. If one of my other dogs or my cat invaded her space near the kennel, she reacted with aggression. She doesn't have a mean bone in her body, she was just concerned that someone was going to take her food. When I got her, she would lunge at the sides of her crate and go into a frenzy of snarling if anyone got within eight feet of her kennel. She was not as bad with people as she was with dogs or cats, but she did still show aggression. With the horse training methods in mind, I wandered calmly at a distance to her kennel that she was comfortable with. When she was comfortable enough that she was barely aware that I was there, I ventured slightly closer, and so on. Then I leashed Nick and did the very same thing. This was a very slow process, of course. Eventually I could have Nick sit right beside her kennel, closest to her bowl, and she was calm. Then I opened the kennel door, and did the same. This went quickly, because she trusted us near her food. Next I took her out and leashed her, putting Nick inside the kennel. I let him roam freely inside, while she sat outside. (Nick is actually small enough to fit in her bowl, so I did this too. Lol. ^^) Eventually they could both sit quietly inside, with her full food bowl, and she showed no aggression. I fed her outside the kennel many times, with everyone roaming around the house, free to eat out of her bowl if they wanted. Now she could care less if Nick is sitting in her bowl while she's eating.

  4. Glad to hear that she got over it!

  5. A very important article, Jean. One thing you didn't mention was hand feeding. When dealing with an anxious or fearful dog, feeding directly from the owner's hand can help. Err...of course not recommended if your dog has a tendency to bite the hand that feeds it.

    tx_cowgirl, well done! You do realise that your methods did not involve any intimidation or punishment, nor did you try to show poor Mud that you're the boss?! Instead, you slowly desensitized Mud to your presence and that of other dogs using Nick. You did it the right way... slowly... without using force or any leash popping/yanking, grabbing the scruff or alpha rolling. Congrats!

  6. Well of course. ^^ This was a couple of years ago I suppose...call me crazy, but I incorporate a lot of horse training methods with a dog training twist on them. It works...I'm actually about to post something about that. ^^ And for the record, I never used the scruff grabbing or alpha rolling. =) As I said before, I used a variation of Cesar's methods. ^^ But anywho, yeah I got Mud about 2 years ago, and she got over her food aggression in about a month or less. You might like to read the post I'm about to type up...even if you already know the stuff, you may find it interesting at how similar horse and dog training can be.
    And thank you both. ^^ I'm glad she got over it too!

  7. I think it would be pretty hard to scruff and alpha role with a horse..... LOL

  8. Lol. ^^ Yep. Interestingly enough some people do practice something similar to the alpha role methods with horses......when they are born, then knock them over repeatedly, rather than using a process called "imprinting" which accustoms them slowly to humans, and a variety of different things. I hate the equine version of alpha role methods.....supposedly it makes them "respect" you when they are bigger, but to me, fear and respect are two entirely different things. And I'd rather have my horse respect and trust me than obey me simply because they are scared to react. I want my horses to work with me, not me work at my horse.

  9. personaly im a fan of imprinting rather then the other methods but sometimes you just dont have a choice or the time required to do it. One of my dogs has a food agression problem but its not bad and its just against other dogs so ive got to work on that id would help if he wasnt so dang high stung around food.

  10. I don't think there are ever any exceptions to use the "fear=respect" method for horses. If you don't have the time to properly and humanely raise a foal, then you either shouldn't breed the mare in the first place, or sell the pregnant mare to someone who does have time for the foal. I'll help ya with the food aggression problem, just let me know when.

  11. hmm K ill let u know when I get time pretty busy this week and there are times but I dont want to talk about them now.

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