Shake Your Head No

Discussion in 'Training Challenges' started by kassidybc, Jul 31, 2013.

  1. kassidybc Experienced Member

    I'm teaching Chloe to shake her head no. She's doing really well, and after only a few training sessions, she has made a ton of progress! The way I am teaching her is I put out both of my hands in fists on either side of her, and with a treat in each hand. Originally, when she touched one of my fists with her nose, I would click and open the other fist so she could get the treat from there. But I switched which hand she would have to touch to get the treat, so that she would go back and forth between my hands, because she wouldn't know which one to touch. Then I began clicking before she actually touched my hand. But I don't know how to fade out my hands. I try to bring my hands toward me a little so that I can gradually fade them out, but when I move them away she won't do it. Any ideas? Sorry if I didnt explain that very well lol, tell me if there is something you don't understand that you want me to explain.
    MaryK likes this.

  2. sara Moderator

    I used objects with post-its attached for Mouse then slowly moved them behind her. Moving the targets in front of the dog doesn't usually work and it's too hard to move your fists behind he dog lol.
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  3. brody_smom Experienced Member

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  4. kcmetric Well-Known Member

    I personally feel like Emily made it way more complicated than it needed to be... like most of the other things I teach I just lured it... super is. The dogs figured it out in no time.

    I don't have enough furniture for emily's style! lol
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  5. sara Moderator

    Well the luring totally doesn't work for us and the furniture does. Mouse cant learn through luring for anything... food in front of face, brain shuts off.
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  6. kassidybc Experienced Member

    I tried this method this morning after I read your post, but I can't seem to get her to sit well in between the objects. When I get her to sit between them she's always on an angle or off centered or too far ahead of behind the objects. Once in a while I'll get her in the right spot, but then when she hits the sticky notes with her nose she moves again. Any ideas on getting her in the right position, and getting her to stay there?
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  7. kassidybc Experienced Member

    So luring worked well for you? I wanted to do luring in the beginning, since it seemed simplest, but all the videos and stuff out there had the dogs going back and forth between something like sticky notes on furniture. I was thinking I could even maybe just wait and click for her looking one way, then the next time click for her looking the other way, and then she would go back and forth looking both ways since she wouldn't know which way would get her the click. Although that probably wouldn't produce as dramatic of a head shaking.... I may try luring, using furniture, and the looking thing that I said (if you guys think that would work), and see which method works best for her....
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  8. kcmetric Well-Known Member

    Luring is the way I teach it in one of my classes. All of the dogs end up successful. Start small lures if need be. You can also just teach one side at a time and then ask for them one after the other eventually.

    Much like teaching march or something in a dog. You teach him or her to lift one leg first. Then the other. Then you ask for a cycle.
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  9. brody_smom Experienced Member

    I thought that, too, when I watched the video, but the end result was so impressive. I find many of her techniques seem to be more complicated than what I would think of on my own, but if you see how her dogs perform their tricks, they are very precise and attentive. Being a novice, my training produces pretty sloppy, unreliable results, so I wouldn't be the one to criticize her. I'm sure there are many more experienced trainers than me who could come up with something better.
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  10. sara Moderator

    Actually Mouse had a similar issue. I made Mouse stay on a block to get her to the right position. But she already knew how to to that.
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  11. kcmetric Well-Known Member

    Different strokes for different folks. That's all =)
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  12. MaryK Honored Member

    With Ra Kismet I just used a lure to get him to say NO and also YES! He was quite food orientated though, which helped.
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  13. sara Moderator

    I tried it with Oliver last night... just to see. I've never worked on this with him ever. I used a chair and the corner of his crate. He did brilliantly. Not moving forward or back at all. And within 10 minutes he was going side to side to side. we'll proof this for another couple of sessions and add a cue before moving the objects back.
    brodys_mom likes this.
  14. brody_smom Experienced Member

    Did you use Emily's whole method, with the sticky notes, or a revised version?
  15. sara Moderator

    Well, I'm not sure as I dont know which vid I saw to train it lol. I just rememberseeing a how to using furniture lol. And no... I didn't use post-its as I didn't have any. I just pointed and told Oliver to target.
  16. Evie Experienced Member

    I tried teaching this to Evil B about a year ago, worked on it for about a week before giving up due to having no progress what so ever oh and the fact that Evie HATED it. I was trying to teach this by her targeting post-it notes on the edge of furniture which she was wonderful at. I think I was following kikopups methods if I remember correctly.

    I might have to give this a go again later this week and see if we can't get some real progress! If not, think I may try luring it..
    brodys_mom likes this.
  17. myraellen Well-Known Member

    My friend just found this thread. She didn't know earlier that there would be this thread about this trick. My friend has seen tutorials about this. They use targeting in them. She hasn't taught it to Lotta yet. In one older thread the starter of that thread tried luring. It didn't work with his/her dog. Someone else also mentioned that it wouldn't work. However,you are saying that it could be teached that way:


    My friend thinks that luring might work with Lotta. She is quite good in following a treat with her snout. My friend can try it as soon as she can. ( Her dog, Lotta, has just been spayed.) If luring would work with Lotta, how would my friend teach that behavior then?
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  18. MaryK Honored Member

    If Lotta is a food motivated dog then luring will work. First, if you haven't one already get a clicker. In the meantime use a MARKER WORD - I suggest YES.

    Lure Lotta with a treat, the the moment she does what you want CLICK/USE MARKER WORD (not both though one or the other) and REWARD!!!!!!!!

    To get a dog to shake their head for No. Just keep the treat near Lotta's nose, not too close and not far enough away that she has to move her body. Then just move the treat from side to side. The second she moves her head - it maybe only a small amount at first - CLICK/MARKER WORD and treat!
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  19. myraellen Well-Known Member

    My friend uses a clicker. She wasn't sure what you meant but she has tried something:
    http://vid740.photobucket.com/albums/xx50/CavalierLotta/shakeno_zps5e440bac.mp4

    If my friend coaxes Lotta to go under something, she gets her to stay still. She doesn't have a crate and Lotta don't know how to stay. For example in this video the dog stays in the same position when she/he is doing this trick:


    My friend has additional questions about this:

    Does it look good? Should my friend teach one side at the time? How should she continue?
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  20. MaryK Honored Member

    Before trying to teach shake head for no, your friend really needs to teach 'stay' - that's also more important as it's a basic trick. Shaking the head for No is not important but fun.

    If Lotta hasn't learned all the basics, like stay, recall etc. then I would be teaching her those before moving onto the 'fancy' tricks. Sit, stay, recall and stop are important tricks for any dog to learn. Drop/down is another one but the first four I've mentioned are really important. However, stop is best taught only after a dog has a good strong recall. And STOP is important because there may (hopefully never) be a time when a dog needs to just STOP immediately other wise the dog would find themselves in danger. It's something a lot of people don't even think of training - until it's too late.
    running_dog likes this.

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